Bon Jour! skipping over to Paris for this set, and what a stroll through the 7th arrondissement it is.
Maison Lous Marie has a rich history in the fragrance world and continues to be a bit of a powerhouse in the natural niche space. Marie was a fashion editor at for the Sunday Times (tres bien) and then a fine arts photographer before reigniting her passion for scent from her childhood. Her husbo Matthew has an equally impressive resume and they both now turn the cogs at MLM.
This discovery set is reasonably priced and as such, there's not much to it. 6 x 1.5ml of their best sellers in a small box. No notes, no test strips, just bare naked fragrance. I was annoyed at first that the back lists actual ingredients instead of notes but maybe that's a good thing for one's imagination and olfactory education.
As with most natural fragrances the longevity is missing, so is the projection. This makes Maison Louis Marie a very personal scent house, along the lines of the minus range from Commodity. Buy this for yourself and no one else because it's you who will get the scented benefit.
Let's get into it.
Andtidris Cassis
Top Note: Cassis, Bergamot, Black Pepper
Mid Note: White Rose
Base Note: Oakmoss, Musk, Tonka
Cassis is so punchy in the opening, but not like the tang of a true blackcurrant. There is a pepper but that middle rose comes in very immediately. If you like roses, you will love this. Oakmoss and Tonka are two of my favourite base notes and together, pure music to my skin.
Full bottle worthy, you know what, yes. This would be on the spectrum of sweet florals in my collection and I'm not that kind of scent wearer but it deserves a seat at the table.
No 4. Boise de Balincourt
Top note: Sandalwood, Cedarwood
Mid note: Vetiver, Nutmeg, Cinnamon
Base note: Amber Wood
Can't say much here because the atomiser on my tester was broken. But I squeezed a little out of the pinhole and snore: heavy, ubiquitous sandalwood. I would love to see if the cinnamon and nutmeg in this shines through, but maybe another in-store day.
No. 12 Bousval
Top note: Bergamot, Cardamom, Valencia Orange
Mid note: Heliotrope Flower, White Ginger, Petitgrain
Base note: Gilded Amber, Cedar Noir, Myrrh
Gilded amber, crikey what is that? Resin with vanilla accords apparently. I don't get that at all, the petitgrain and Myrrh are strong in this one and it lends itself to a uniquely fresh yet moody fragrance. I can't imagine where I would wear this, it's not a day fragrance at all on my skin. Let's put this in the jazz club at 1am category. Not mad about that at all.
No. 2 Le Long Fond
Top: Hinkoi
Mid: Cedar, Patchouli
Base: Musk
I love how fragrances can evoke memories of a time long past. Le Long Ford takes me back to the days when I was carefree about cleaning products and liberally doused my bathroom in Pine-o Cleen. I do apologise Louis Marie, and slight rudeness aside, this is a fresh fragrance that would do well after any sporting activity, tennis or lacrosse maybe? It has to be a combination of fresh hinoki and deep cedarwood. Le Labo uses heavy Hinoki in their skincare but it doesn't have this vibe.
Don't judge a book by its disinfectant tendencies though, wait for the musk to come through and it smooths out the aggressive cleaning fluid for a beautiful soft landing. This also has a middle of patchouli, my nemesis, but it's barely there. It's masculine on my skin and sadly, not a full bottle purchase that I'd be making.
No. 13 Nouvelle Vague
Top note: Maguet (Lily of the Valley), Coconut
Mid note: Tuscan Fig, Tonka
Base note: Vetiver, Santal, Vetiver
Deliziosa! this is sublime. A French house with an Italian fragrance is my favourite European combo. A big fan of the burnt almond Tonka note in this (anywhere, actually) and if I was a 'signature scent' kind of person, it could be top of the list.
Tonka, lemon, fig, and coconut make this beautiful gourmand, but I wouldn't rush out to get this if you are hoping for a tropical coconut vibe. This is sitting in Bistro Baglio on the Amalfi coast, sipping limoncello and watching the world go by. Adoro questo fragranza, full bottle imminent.
No. 9 Vallee de Farney
Top note: Grapefruit, Orange, Black Pepper
Mid note: Cedarwood, Patchouli, Geranium
Base note: Vetiver, Amber, Musk
Despite having some of my least favourite notes on board, this is interesting. Gernaium is key and makes this unique, you don't get geranium in any old perfume, and it's luscious. The grapefruit reminds me of a softer version of Guerlain Allegoria Pamplelune, Vallee is a little more soapier in the best of ways. This is definitely a mature take on a fresh summer scent and my second favourite of this set.
Verdict
Get this set, it's equivalent to a fortnight's worth of coffee in price and there truly is something for every taste. Even the clean freaks.
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